Many people choose to raise chickens; some as a commercial venture and others for a hobby. Chickens are quite easy to raise and can make fun pets. Fertilized eggs do require special care and will normally hatch into healthy chicks. The first step in the selection process involves weeding out any cracked eggs. These can be cooked or thrown away because they will definitely not hatch.
The most common way eggs are chosen for hatching is by a process called candling. This process distinguishes the duds from the eggs that have chicks growing inside. You can do candling by following these steps:. If eggs need to be stored before they go into the incubator, they must be kept below room temperature. An incubator is anything that will keep heat and humidity at a constant level throughout the hatching period.
The three most important factors for success in the incubator, besides fertile eggs, are turning, temperature, and humidity. Sanitation is extremely important for anything that will be in contact with hatching eggs. Make sure that all hands are washed and that the incubator has been rinsed out with bleach. Incubation and Care of Hatching Eggs.
You can do candling by following these steps: Use a small bedside-sized lamp with a watt flood light bulb installed. She has also promised to replace them if they are infertile so all's well etc.
I'll let you know the outcome in a week or so. Thanks everyone. Here is an excerpt from "Hatching and brooding small numbers of chicks" by Minnesota University extension service. Hatchability declines rapidly when incubation is postponed for more than 10 days. If the eggs are to be stored for more than 2 to 3 days before they are incubated, their positions should be changed each day to reduce the tendency for the yolks to stick to the shells. Begin by propping up one end of the case or carton; each day, change the position of the block, or turn the container end for end.
If you can have your eggs supplied within 1 or 2 days before you incubate, you eliminate these procedures" and some problem solving tips when they don't hatch! Problem-solving There are many reasons for poor hatches. Breeding, feeding, and management of the egg production flock; care of the eggs before incubation; and the incubation environment: these all can influence the hatch. Possible causes for some of the more common problem symptoms are listed here.
Symptoms Possible cause Eggs candling clear No blood rings or embryo growth. Eggs from a flock having no roosters. Poor flock management. Eggs candling clear But showing blood or very small embryos on breaking.
Incubator temperature too high. Dead Embryos Before hatching time. Eggs haven't been turned at least 3 times a day. Lack of ventilation. Incubator temperature set too high or too low. Breeder flock having poor hatchability or fed inadequate ration. Eggs pipped but not hatched Chick pecks hole through shell Chicks dead in shells. Sticky chicks Shells sticking to chicks.
Low average humidity. Low average temperature. Low humidity at hatching time. Excessive high temperature for short period. Hatching too early With bloody navels. Temperature too high. Delayed hatch Eggs not pipping until 21 st day or later. Temperature too low. Draggy hatch Some chicks hatch early, but hatch is slow in finishing.
Crippled chicks Abnormalities in development. Poor nutrition of hens. Note that the first two points are for low temps during egg storage and the other points regarding temperature are all for problems after incubation has started. Note that 40F is 4. Sign up for my monthly newsletter! Get all the latest news along with practical tips and expert advice. Calculators Vet talks Expert advice Ebooks Fun stuff.
Log in Login. One of the most critical issues for hatching is to avoid contamination with bacteria. By choice a hen will use a quiet, clean place to set her clutch. If for any reason you need to store your fertile eggs for a few days before incubating, copy that instinct. Although you won't be able to see it, bacteria can lurk in storage containers. Unless you're careful with hygiene, you run the risk of contaminating your current clutch.
If you're storing your fertile eggs in standard cardboard cartons , make sure they're new - don't use them for more than one set. Mark them "Fertile eggs - not for eating"! If using plastic or resin containers, wash thoroughly before use. I use a baby-bottle sterilising liquid but a mild bleach solution is fine.
Use one teaspoon of bleach to one litre about one quart of warm water. A container like this one I use is ideal. It's strong, reusable and easily washed. After incubation it can be used to store eggs for eating. A hen will keep her eggs lying sideways, and that's the way smaller incubators like the Brinsea Mini Advance my favourite incubator also work. If you need to store them in a container like the one above, the eggs should always be stored with the more pointed end facing downwards , even if it's only for a short time.
This makes sure the yolk stays properly suspended. It's the way they should be set in the incubator , too. If the more rounded end faces down for too long there's a danger that the air cell will become dislodged and the developing embryo will die. Experience and evidence is clear that storing fertile eggs the wrong way up, and certainly incubating them the wrong way up, will result in few, if any, hatching. My preferred option is to remove them from the upright container trays and lie the eggs on their side, protected by either kitchen roll or tissue paper.
It's how I transport them by car or plane , too.
0コメント