Next place the live jumper to the small terminal onthe starter's solenoid if this starts the engine then the wire from the relay to here is not conducting properly. If it doesn't it could be a faulty soilenoid or stuck plunger mechanism inside.
Finally place the live jumper on the starter terminal either at the solenoid or the starter itself and see if the statrter spins freely and very fast. The answers to these test will help narrow or resolve the failure to engage the statrter. Please let us know how you make out with the work arounds. Check and clean your battery cables, both ends.
Before you spend any money on parts. Often you will that a loose cable will not let enough current flow. If the relay switch is clicking, then it's not working and you need to replace it. That's was the sound of mine. Originally Posted by Fe Head. Originally Posted by kelton The time now is User Name.
Remember Me? Cut and strip a third length of wire, then attach an alligator clip to both ends. Connect one clip to the battery's positive terminal. Connect the free clip to the starter relay terminal on the left side of the starter solenoid.
The solenoid pinion gear, exposed at the inner face of the solenoid, should click and retract into the starter housing. The starter solenoid is defective if the pinion gear does not retract. Disconnect the field coil terminal clip from the battery's negative terminal. Move the clip to the battery's positive terminal. The solenoid pinion gear should remain in a fully-retracted position.
The starter solenoid is defective if the pinion gear extends at this point. Remove the clip from the starter relay terminal on the left side of the solenoid. The pinion gear should extend outward. The starter solenoid is defective if the pinion gear does not extend outward into its at-rest position. Slide the starter motor into position from the right side of the engine. Screw the starter motor mounting bolts into place and tighten them to 22 foot-pounds.
Reconnect all wiring connections to the starter solenoid. Reinstall the primary chaincase cover. Tighten the primary cover bolts to inch-pounds. Remove the derby cover using a Torx driver, then fill the primary chaincase with 1 quart of Harley-Davidson Sport-Trans fluid. I hit the start button and got the same clicking sound. I figured it had to be the starter relay under the seat.
I ordered a new one from Ebay, put it on and it fires up every time now. I can still hear the starter turning at idle. I've taken the solenoid off, put some gear oil in it to lube it up good and it started up normally once or twice but went quickly went back to staying on again.
I havent eliminated it as the problem on a load tester but still dont think it's that. Does anyone have any ideas what I should do next or any ole pro's already had this problem years ago and already know what I've done wrong??
Thanks waiteitei! I came across that earlier and it sounded like he was having sorta the smame thing. Where mine is a factory installed starting system and had no known problems before i messed with the soenoid i was hoping somoone would know immediately what i was up against.
I'm considering taking the solenoid back off for the 3rd time and taking it apart to see whats going on in there. Sounds like too much resistance in the solenoid and or the relay, causing probably the main circuit breaker under the seat to trip. They automatically reset after they cool down. Someone suggested the battery not carrying a strong enough load when the starter buttoin is engaged, that possibly it could cause the solenoid to sieze up or something.
I guess changing the battery would be the easiest thing to change first. The clicking, as already said, is the circuit breaker under the seat. Somewhere in the initial starter system you have a short. It could be at the key switch which mine was, or the starter button on the hand controls. You see, it is shorting before it can get to the relay, solenoid or starter and that is why it's tripping the breaker.
Find all posts by Wooley. I see what you're saying Low, the thing that gets me is I never had a problem with the sticking until I changed the solenoid. The pinion gear on the end of the solenoid plunger should project out AND the starter motor should spin because the internal high-amp connection in the solenoid will be making a circuit from terminal 'A' to terminal 'C'.
Then remove the positive. If the solenoid and starter do not function strongly, you may want to do the test below of the Solenoid Wiring Circuits. Or, if the solenoid appears to strongly move the plunger, you may decide to disassemble the solenoid to check the high-current contacts which operate the starter motor.
Check the quality of both internal contacts labeled 'B' in the picture above and check the plunger contact 'D'. If you find that the internal contacts are unevenly worn, badly pitted or mis-aligned, you may need to replace them. There are rebuild kits for the solenoid which includes the plunger and new contacts. Read and follow all the precautions listed above for 'Testing the Starter Assembly while off the bike' to safely remove the starter from the bike.
Disconnect the Solenoid 'C' connection to the Starter Motor. We do not want to spin the motor. Place the wire out of the way, where it cannot accidentally make contact with Connection 'C'. This completely removes the starter motor from the equation. You will need a typical, fully charged, 12v battery to run these tests. Use jumper wires capable of handling the current up to 20 amps the solenoid draws. Use quality gauge wire. Make two insulated jumper wires 12 gauge long enough to reach from the solenoid to the battery.
The testing requires both wires to be moved between the two battery terminals, so holding them carefully by the insulation, one in each hand, should provide a safe and quick way of moving the connections. Now the test - This sequence is done quickly, moving swiftly from one connection to the other. This starter is defined to fit and later Dyna, and and later Softail and Touring model motorcycles.
From examining the solenoid rebuild kit for this model, it appears the solenoid plunger rod is longer than that used with the Sportster 1. So this kit may not work with the XL models. Rebuild Kits: through Big Twin ….. Testing the starter circuit on the bike. Testing the Starter Assembly while off the bike. The Starter Solenoid has three connections and performs two functions.
Be sure to reconnect your coil input connections.
0コメント